• Sometimes You Gotta Learn the Hard Way at JAWS!

  • 2025/03/14
  • 再生時間: 1 時間 23 分
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Sometimes You Gotta Learn the Hard Way at JAWS!

  • サマリー

  • Kai and Ridge reflect on the last swell of the season at Jaws. They delve into Ridge's journey of recovery from a significant wipeout, the importance of brain health, and how it has impacted his performance. The duo also explores the evolution of surfboard design, the significance of switching stances, and the techniques that enhance their big wave performance. They share insights on paddling strategies, the balance of board size, and the innovations that continue to shape the future of surfing. They delve into the intricacies of surfing big waves, particularly focusing on barrel riding techniques, the ethics of wave priority, and the learning experiences of young surfers like Otis. The discussion highlights the camaraderie and mentorship within the surfing community, as well as the respect required for the powerful waves at Jaws.

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あらすじ・解説

Kai and Ridge reflect on the last swell of the season at Jaws. They delve into Ridge's journey of recovery from a significant wipeout, the importance of brain health, and how it has impacted his performance. The duo also explores the evolution of surfboard design, the significance of switching stances, and the techniques that enhance their big wave performance. They share insights on paddling strategies, the balance of board size, and the innovations that continue to shape the future of surfing. They delve into the intricacies of surfing big waves, particularly focusing on barrel riding techniques, the ethics of wave priority, and the learning experiences of young surfers like Otis. The discussion highlights the camaraderie and mentorship within the surfing community, as well as the respect required for the powerful waves at Jaws.

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