Imagine catching a massive wave that lands you in the Guinness Book of World Records. That's the life of Shawn Dollar, who shares his incredible journey from a young surfer to a big wave legend. With accolades like the XXL Awards, Shawn recounts the heart-pounding moments of riding giants at Mavericks and the remote Cortes Bank, detailing the thrill and anxiety charging monster waves. But this isn't just a tale of adrenaline; Shawn opens up about the internal tug-of-war between his passion for surfing and the responsibilities that come with it.

We navigate the highs and lows of big wave surfing, from achieving world records to the challenges of returning to everyday life. Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay set the stage for this vibrant surfing culture, where legends inspire newcomers and a new generation of surfers like Luca Padua and John Mel prepare to make their mark. Shawn paints a vivid picture of the addictive nature of the sport and the difficult decision to step back after life-altering experiences. The episode takes a poignant turn as Shawn candidly shares his journey of healing from traumatic brain injuries, emphasizing the need for awareness and support for similar challenges.

Amidst the rush of the waves, Shawn introduces us to the world of mindfulness and art as tools for healing and personal peace. He discusses innovative approaches to brain recovery in extreme sports and his mission to change the narrative around mental health. Shawn hopes to inspire change and awareness through his website and an upcoming film project, underscoring the importance of finding balance in a technology-saturated world. This compelling episode blends adrenaline, community, healing, and artistic exploration, offering listeners a window into the life of a big-wave surfer with a profound story of resilience and passion.

What if one person could truly embody the spirit of a community? Join us as we celebrate the life and legacy of Santa Cruz legend Shawn "Barney" Barron, a surfer whose presence was as vibrant and lively as the waves he rode. With guests like renowned surf filmmaker Josh Pomer and multi-talented artist and musician Jason “Willz” Williams, we reflect on Barney's infectious energy and his unique ability to make everyone feel at home in their own skin. Discover how Pomer’s heartfelt film "Particle Fever" captures Barney's essence and the joy he brought to the surf community.

We take you on a nostalgic journey back to the days of Santa Cruz adventures, contrasting the freedom of our childhoods with the more supervised lives of today's youth. From mischievous escapades with Barney and his dog to the camaraderie of the local surf scene, we share stories that highlight the resilience and creativity fostered by such an upbringing. Learn how the local culture, shaped by individuals like Barney, left an indelible mark on us all, encouraging spontaneity and a sense of community.

As we prepare for the premiere of a surf movie in Barney's honor, the excitement is palpable. Hear about the creative journey behind his artistic expressions, from iconic wetsuit creations to tribute songs that capture his zest for life. We express our gratitude to the surf community for their unwavering support and reflect on the importance of sharing Barney's vibrant personality with the world. This episode is a heartfelt tribute to a beloved friend whose legacy continues to inspire and bring people together.

This week, we had an unforgettable conversation with Zoe Chait, an incredible surfer (and a bit of a reluctant musician). Her journey takes us from the stunning waves of Half Moon Bay to the incredible atmosphere of Kelly Slater's Wave Pool. Through her storytelling, Zoe paints a vivid picture of the connections formed in the surfing world and the thrill of conquering Mavericks. Her experiences showcase the beauty of pursuing different passions and how they all blend in her adventurous life.

We delved into Zoe's background, from growing up with Broadway actor parents to her pivotal decision to focus on surfing over other sports. Mentorship plays a huge role in her story, with inspiring figures like Bianca Valente guiding the next generation of surfers. Zoe shared personal stories that capture the mix of fear and excitement when facing massive waves. This episode is a heartfelt tribute to the mentors who lead the way and the experiences that shape a surfer’s journey.

As we talked, we celebrated how surfing has evolved, from the cutting-edge technology of modern wetsuits to the rich history of legends like Barney Barron. We discussed the thrill of planning surf trips, the intricacies of competitions, and the sense of community at places like Norcal. Zoe’s thoughts on mindfulness, yoga (even the not-so-great parts), and journaling highlight the personal practices that fuel her success and happiness. Join us as we reflect on friendships, achievements, and the global connections that make surfing so much more than just a sport – it’s truly a way of life.

How does a young surfer from Santa Cruz rise to become a shining star in the world of surfing? Jackson Taylor's journey from being influenced by his dad's impressive backhand technique to experimenting with cutting-edge boards by Bobby Ledesma and Lost speaks volumes of his dedication and passion. This episode unpacks Jackson's story, his inspirations, and his insights into the next wave of talent, including Julian Trang, Otter Punch (Kai), and Brody Price, showcasing the relentless pursuit of excellence within the Santa Cruz surfing community.

In celebrating the vibrant culture of surfing and the invaluable bond between surfers and photographers, we reflect on legendary moments that have defined Jackson's career. From his iconic stand-up barrel photo that captivated magazine covers to the mutual respect shared between surfers and photographers, the episode delves deep into the magnetism certain surfers possess, making every shot a masterpiece. This chapter explores the symbiotic dance of skill and timing that immortalizes the breathtaking moments on the waves, capturing the heart and soul of surfing culture.

From the powerful waves of Oahu to the intense mental and physical challenges faced by surfers, this episode is a thrilling ride through the highs and lows of the surfing world. We discuss the crucial aspects of surf etiquette, the camaraderie among surfers, and the therapeutic nature of both surfing and skating. Jackson shares his personal fitness routines, his new collaboration with Sector Nine, and the importance of balancing sports with education and life. Stories of resilience, near-death experiences at Pipeline, and the invaluable support systems that guide athletes through their journey provide listeners with inspiring insights and lessons from the heart of the surfing community.

What does it take to become one of the world's best power surfers and a true ambassador of Aloha? Join us as we embark on an inspiring journey with Pancho Sullivan, whose life story begins at Taylor Camp, a unique hippie commune in Kauai, and leads us to the powerful waves of the North Shore of Oahu. Pancho and his longtime friend Nelly share heartfelt stories from their 30-year bond, reflecting on the deep sense of Ohana (family) that has shaped their lives. From personal relationships built through surfing to the full-circle moments of living in the same places at different times, this episode is a beautiful tribute to friendship, family, and the incredible journey of a surfing legend.

Experience the magnetic pull of the North Shore through Pancho's eyes, as he takes us back to his early days of surfing amidst Oahu's green valleys and awe-inspiring waves. Hear about the legendary moments that defined his youth, like Michael Ho’s iconic Pipeline Masters win that inspired him to push his limits. This narrative captures the essence of surfing culture and community on the North Shore, highlighting its blend of challenge, respect, and camaraderie. Learn how Pancho secured his first sponsorship with Billabong at just 13 and how surfing became a sanctuary from the chaos of home life, fueling his passion and commitment to the sport.

Discover the personal stories that shaped Pancho’s career and life beyond professional surfing. Auntie Karen, a beloved figure in the North Shore community, played a pivotal role in supporting young surfers, and her influence is warmly remembered. Pancho shares his awe-inspiring experiences with big wave surfing, the evolution of the Island Days brand, and the delicate balance between career ambitions and personal integrity. From thrilling competitions to family life and the constant pursuit of self-improvement, this episode is a testament to the ever-evolving journey of a surfer dedicated to his craft and the bonds that matter most.