Today, we’re continuing our conversation with Dean Rosnau. If you haven’t listened to Part I yet, I highly recommend checking that out before diving into this episode.

We pick up with one of the most personal and tragic stories in Dean’s life: the loss of his close friend, Pete Schoerner, in an ice climbing accident. This part of the conversation is heavy—graphic at times—so please proceed with that in mind. But it’s also an important story, one that opens the door to a deeper conversation around grief: how it manifests, how we process it, and what it looks like to live on the other side of profound trauma.

From there, we shift focus to a more positive side of the SAR experience—a rescue that saved three skiers’ lives after a cornice collapse on Mt. Dana. We explore why, despite the complex technical skill required and the real risk involved, nearly all search and rescue work remains volunteer. What does that mean for the people who do it—and what drives them to keep showing up?

We also talk about the long-term emotional effect of saving a life. To witness someone you’ve rescued go on to live, have children, and impact the world—it changes something in the rescuer too.

We close the episode by talking about Matthew Greene, a missing climber Dean has been searching for over the past 13 years. We go into the details of his disappearance, the painstaking efforts to find him, and the difficult question: when is it time to stop searching?

You’ll hear both Dean and I reference a book throughout this conversation—The Shortest Straw: Search and Rescue in the High Sierra. It’s Dean’s memoir, filled with some of the most powerful stories from his 35 years in SAR. This podcast only scratches the surface. I encourage you to grab a copy and dive deeper.

You can find the link to the book HERE

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Resources

Dean's Book "The Shortest Straw: Search and Rescue in the High Sierra"

Dean's Website

Dean's IG

As we progress as climbers and inevitably turn our gaze toward higher peaks and more remote objectives, a common lesson begins to emerge: the mountains are a dangerous place to play. But early on, this remains a lesson heard, not truly learned. Inevitably, with enough time spent in remote places, something is bound to happen—either directly to us, or to someone close enough to sear this truth into our souls.

From an early age, Dean Rosnau found himself brushing shoulders with death, learning not only that the mountains are dangerous—but that life itself is dangerous, and that our actions can carry severe consequences. Looking at your friend’s body in a casket, and watching a fallen climber bleed out at the base of Bridalveil Falls all before the age of 10 would shape anyone. What Dean didn’t know at the time was that the world was preparing him for some of the most challenging, demanding, and ultimately rewarding years of his life: those spent on the Search and Rescue team for the Eastern Sierra.

Dean has since accumulated over 35 years of SAR work, recovered 66 bodies, and completed over 800 individual rescue missions—with more than 2.5 years of volunteer time spent away from his family, in the service of strangers.

And this… is his story.

We start part one of this conversation with Dean’s origin story—how he grew up as a young climber surrounded by legends like John Long, John Bachar, Bob Gaines, and Lynn Hill. We go into two very close calls that nearly cost Dean his life, and explore how we—not just as climbers, but as humans—can play safer in the mountains. We also discuss how we can aid search and rescue find our bodies… alive or dead… in the event that we go missing in the backcountry.

This is a deep—and at times heavy—conversation, with some stories and visuals that may not be appropriate for children. Please proceed with that in mind.

You’ll hear both Dean and I reference a book throughout this conversation: The Shortest Straw – Search and Rescue in the High Sierra. This is Dean Rosnau’s educational memoir of some of the cases he’s been involved in over his 35 years in SAR. While we reference a few of these stories here, this episode does no justice to reading the full thing. I highly encourage you to pick up a copy to truly understand the scope of Dean’s experience in the mountains.

You can find a link to the book HERE

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Don’t forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!

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The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show.

Share an episode with a friend.
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Resources

Dean's Book "The Shortest Straw: Search and Rescue in the High Sierra"

Dean's Website

Dean's IG

Today, we’re picking up right where we left off with Petch Pietrolungo—climber, AMGA certified guide, free soloist, and the local legend of Lover’s Leap in California. If you missed part one of this conversation, I highly recommend heading back and starting there—it’ll give you a deeper appreciation for where we’re going today.

In this second part, we dive into Petch’s journey to becoming an AMGA-certified guide and how he launched Lover’s Leap Guides back in 2003. We take a close look at stewardship—what it really means, why it matters, and how we all can contribute to protecting the places we climb, even if we’re not out there building trails or replacing bolts.

We also get into Petch’s relationship with free soloing—not as some reckless pursuit, but as a practice that’s deeply personal, calculated, and, in his case, something he attributes to saving his life. He walks us through what it takes to move through the mountains with that kind of confidence, including a mind-blowing day where he soloed 112 pitches… and how those skills and systems carry over into offering large days of climbing to his clients.

Finally we close the conversation off with a deeply personal look into Petch’s battle with alcoholism… how it impacted his life, and his decision to live sober and fully present moving forward

----

HELP SUPPORT THE SHOW & GET ACCESS TO EXCLUSIVE EPISODES!

For a little as $5/mo!

----

Don’t forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!

---

The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show.

Share an episode with a friend.
Post about the show on social media.
Jump into Reddit threads or Mountain Project forums and tell people what you’re listening to.
Tag the show, tag your favorite guests, help spread the word.

Please rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.

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We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don’t hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com

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Resources

Petch's IG

Hire Petch As A Guide